At least 1.2 million acres of the Chaco have been deforested in the last two years, according to satellite analyses by Guyra,
an environmental group in Asunción, the capital. Ranchers making way
for their vast herds of cattle have cleared roughly 10 percent of the
Chaco forest in the last five years, Guyra said. That is reflected in
surging beef exports.
“Paraguay already has the sad distinction of being a deforestation
champion,” said José Luis Casaccia, a prosecutor and former environment
minister, referring to the large clearing in recent decades of Atlantic forests in eastern Paraguay for soybean farms; little more than 10 percent of the original forests remain.
“If we continue with this insanity,” Mr. Casaccia said, “nearly all of
the Chaco’s forests could be destroyed within 30 years.”
The rush is already transforming small Mennonite settlements on the
Chaco frontier into boomtowns.
The Mennonites, whose Protestant
Anabaptist faith coalesced in Europe in the 16th century, founded
settlements here in the 1920s. Towns with names like Neuland,
Friedensfeld and Neu-Halbstadt dot the map.
Buoyed by their newfound prosperity, the Mennonite communities here
differ from those in other parts of Latin America, like the settlements
in eastern Bolivia where many Mennonites still drive horse-drawn buggies
and wear traditional clothing.
In Filadelfia, Mennonite teenagers barrel down roads outside town in new
Nissan pickup trucks. Banks advertise loans for cattle traders. Gas
stations sell chewing tobacco and beers like Coors Light. An annual
rodeo lures visitors from across Paraguay.
Patrick Friesen, communications manager for a Mennonite cooperative in
Filadelfia, said property prices had surged fivefold in recent years. “A
plot of land in town costs more than in downtown Asunción,” said Mr.
Friesen, attributing the boom partly to surging global demand for beef.
“Eighty-five percent of our beef is exported, to places including South
Africa, Russia and Gabon,” he said. Citing concerns in some countries
over foot-and-mouth disease, which Paraguay detected in its cattle herd
in 2011, he continued, “We are currently focused on some of the
less-demanding markets.”
Paraguay’s Chaco forest lies in the Gran Chaco plain, spread across
several nations. Scientists fear that the expansion of cattle ranching
could wipe out what is a beguiling frontier for the discovery of new
species. The Chaco is still relatively unexplored. The largest living species of peccary,
piglike mammals, was revealed to science here in the 1970s. In some
areas, biologists have recently glimpsed guanacos, a camelid similar to
the llama.
More alarming, the land rush is also intensifying the upheaval among the
Chaco’s indigenous peoples, who number in the thousands and have been
grappling for decades with forays by foreign missionaries, the rising
clout of the Mennonites and infighting among different tribes.
One group of hunter-gatherers, the Ayoreo, is under particular stress
from the changes. In 2004, 17 Ayoreo speakers, from a subgroup who call
themselves the Totobiegosode, or “people from the place where the
collared peccaries ate our gardens,” made contact with outsiders for the
first time.
In Chaidi, a village near Filadelfia, they described being hounded for
years by bulldozers encroaching on their lands. The Ayoreo word for
bulldozer, “eapajocacade,” means “attackers of the world.”
“They were destroying our forests, generating problems for us,” one Totobiegosode man, Esoi Chiquenoi, who believed he was in his 40s, said through an interpreter. As a result, he and others in his group, who in photographs taken in 2004 were wearing loincloths, abruptly abandoned their way of lif
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